Analysis of the Functional Components in“White to Black”Hair Products Based on Multispectral Technology

XIA Ze-min; LIANG Wen-yao; HUANG Min-han; JIA Fang; CHEN Yan-jun; SUN Jian; NIE Ming-xia; XI Shao-feng; TAN Jian-hua

doi:10.12452/j.fxcsxb.24032505

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Analysis of the Functional Components in“White to Black”Hair Products Based on Multispectral Technology

Scientific Papers | 更新时间：2024-07-08

- Analysis of the Functional Components in“White to Black”Hair Products Based on Multispectral Technology
- Journal of Instrumental Analysis Vol. 43, Issue 7, Pages: 971-977(2024)
- 作者机构：
  
  广州质量监督检测研究院，广州市NQI-质量安全科技协同创新中心，广东广州 511447
- 作者简介：
- 基金信息：
- DOI：10.12452/j.fxcsxb.24032505
  CLC： O657;TQ658.3
- Published：15 July 2024，
  
  Received：25 March 2024，
  
  Revised：28 April 2024，
- 稿件说明：
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夏泽敏,梁文耀,黄敏涵,贾芳,陈彦君,孙剑,聂明霞,席绍峰,谭建华.基于多谱学技术剖析“白转黑”发用产品功效成分[J].分析测试学报,2024,43(07):971-977.

XIA Ze-min,LIANG Wen-yao,HUANG Min-han,JIA Fang,CHEN Yan-jun,SUN Jian,NIE Ming-xia,XI Shao-feng,TAN Jian-hua.Analysis of the Functional Components in“White to Black”Hair Products Based on Multispectral Technology[J].Journal of Instrumental Analysis,2024,43(07):971-977.
夏泽敏,梁文耀,黄敏涵,贾芳,陈彦君,孙剑,聂明霞,席绍峰,谭建华.基于多谱学技术剖析“白转黑”发用产品功效成分[J].分析测试学报,2024,43(07):971-977. DOI： 10.12452/j.fxcsxb.24032505.

XIA Ze-min,LIANG Wen-yao,HUANG Min-han,JIA Fang,CHEN Yan-jun,SUN Jian,NIE Ming-xia,XI Shao-feng,TAN Jian-hua.Analysis of the Functional Components in“White to Black”Hair Products Based on Multispectral Technology[J].Journal of Instrumental Analysis,2024,43(07):971-977. DOI： 10.12452/j.fxcsxb.24032505.

摘要

组合采用色谱、质谱、光谱及能谱等分析技术，对“白转黑”发用产品中可能存在的功效成分进行筛查、鉴定和确认。采用高效液相色谱靶向筛查常见染发剂，气相色谱-质谱联用和超高效液相色谱-高分辨质谱非靶向筛查可能存在的染发和致黑成分。在优化的筛查条件下，超高效液相色谱-高分辨质谱识别出样品放置72 h后

147.930 9处的峰强度出现明显下降。结合精准质量数、同位素分布及保留时间推测该成分为银离子。采用电感耦合等离子体质谱、离子色谱对银元素和硝酸根离子进行含量测定并结合原料性质剖析其来源，同时利用低真空热场发射扫描电镜

对产品变黑成分进行确认，推测硝酸银可能是“白转黑”发用产品产生功效的重要原因。基于硝酸银为功效成分的“白转黑”发用产品在合规性和安全风险方面存在较大问题，亟需对该类产品加强监管。该文建立的组合式分析模式将为后续深入开展化妆品安全风险剖析提供技术参考。

Abstract

The combination of chromatography，mass spectrometry，spectroscopy，and energy spectrum analysis techniques is used to screen，identify，and confirm the potential functional components in the“white to black”hair products. High-performance liquid chromatography was used for targeted screening of common hair dyes using. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry（GC-MS），and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-high-resolution mass spectrometry（UHPLC-HRMS） were used to screen for potential hair dye and melanogenic components. Under optimized screening conditions，UHPLC-HRMS identified a significant decrease in

147.930 9 after 72 hours of sample placement. Based on accurate mass number，isotope distribution，and retention time，it is inferred that the component is silver ions. The content of silver element and nitrate ion was determined by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry and ion chromatography，and its source was analyzed based on the properties of the raw materials. At the same time，the blackening component of the product was confirmed by low vacuum thermal field emission scanning electron microscopy，and it was speculated that silver nitrate may be an important reason for the efficacy of the“white to black”product. The“white to black”hair products based on silver nitrate as the active ingredient have significant compliance and safety risks，and there is an urgent need to strengthen supervision of such products. The combination analysis model established in this article will provide technical reference for further in-depth analysis of cosmetic safety risks.

关键词

“白转黑”发用产品多谱学技术功效成分安全风险

Keywords

“white to black”hair productsmultispectral techniquesfunctional componentssafety risk

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